Brazilian Engine replacement

OK so I needed a replacement long block engine foto replace my Brazilian UGA engine.

There are a number of main differences from the UGA to AD engine. These differences will need to be overcome in order to make a replacement.

The main differences are:

Coolant temperature Sensor (CTS) - The UGA engine requires a CTS to measure the coolant (Oil) temperature. The UGA has a M10x1.0mm Threaded hole mounted in the lower right hand side of the sump.

The main issue is to Tap a threaded hole in your new AD engine will require drilling and tapping swarf to enter the crankcase. Without disassembly of your new engine. NOT GOOD.

So the solution I have com up with is to use a Sump drain plate mounted temperature sensor.

CSP sell a plate with a hole for a temperature sensor:

However the thread size is for a VDO temperature sensor which has a thread size of M14x1.5mm which is to big for the UGA sensor thread of M10x1.0mm


I managed to find a sump sender adapter which is as follows:


Sump Sender Unit Adapter M14x1.5 To 1/8NPT

However the 1/8 NPT is different to M10x1.0mm so I purchased a suitable tap to re-thread the adapter.

Once re-tapped the Bosch CTS sensor screws in and the sensor measures the oil temperature of the sump oil.

It is not ideal location BUT the CTS is only used in start up enrichment and once up to 60oC it is fine.

** UPDATE **

Just had my new AD zero mileage engine delivered from SSP (VW Hertitage)

The engine that arrived came with a Removable plate on the lower left hand side of the slump. This is ideal for the attachment of the CTS sensor.

Other "new" Mexican / Brazilian crankcase AS41 autolinea cases seem to have this plate.

So remove the plate and drill and tap a M10x1.0mm threaded hole and mount the CTS there.

Here is a picture of my new engine case mounting the CTS.

Cool Tins - The Brazilian Bay uses cool tins which are located on the underside of the cylinders.

The image of the cool tins on UGA engine:

These cool tins where used on Type 3 VWs in the '70s and some people use and sell them still. BUT there is some controversy of there effectiveness making engines run hotter.

Your new AD will not come with cool tins fitted, so unless you wish to remove your new AD engines Heads, Barrels & pistons to fit them you will have to run without them.

This is not such a bad thing as there effectiveness is in doubt anyway.

BUT there is a issue as the original AD has a small deflector tinware at the rear underside of the engine which again is essential for correct airflow.

So you will need to purchase a left & right deflector tinware (either secondhand originals or new replacements)

The look like this:

Right

Left

They fit between the on the upper cylinder tin and rear tinware and have captive nuts.

Recap:

There are few differences between the engines. The above list is not full check as I am yet to build up my AD engine BUT these are the main obstacles I have found I need to overcome.