Gearbox Replacement Procedure

Brazilian Bay - Gearbox Replacement

This is a summary guide of my Gearbox replacement.

The Brazilian Bay Kombi gearbox is made in Brazil and is known to have reliability / poor quality manufacture and is best replaced by a German Gearbox.

Here is the progress summary of my Gearbox replacement. Basically its a Late IRS Beetle Gearbox from a 1300-1600cc Late Beetle (1302/1303s Models with the 1600s being the best)

In this case I swapped the RP code Brazilian Bay Gearbox with a 1302s 1600 AH code gearbox

Firstly find and select a suitable gearbox here is my AH code gearbox (new CV joints or Beetle CV joints are required as beetle Gearboxes have a 94mm Diameter CV joint and Bus / Brazilian Bays use a 100mm so you will need to have Bus Outer & Drive shafts and Beetle Inner CV joints)

You need to clean the gearbox and remove old CV joints.

Remove rear bumper & Valance:

Remove Engine:

Remove Old Gearbox:

Swap Over Nose Cone & Hockey stick from Old to new:

Install Beetle CV Joints on van:

Install new gearbox & connect up:

Refit engine. Test gearbox while still on axle stands to ensure all gears work.

Once satisfied away you go with a German Quality Gearbox.

Full comprehensive write up of each phase of my install is on my T2bay bay blog.

http://t2bay.blogspot.co.uk/

I will include this in a full step by step guide in the next version of the service manual also found on my blog.

Broken Gearbox - Phase 5 New gearbox Install

Broken Gearbox - Phase 5 New gearbox Install

Next Phase 5 was to install the gearbox on Friday afternoon. Despite the rain showers the install went OK.

Major problem was the EMPI aftermarket front mount! There are just 4 holes. Two go on the gearbox and two mount to studs on the chassis from gearbox mount. Bolted to the gearbox was done in phase 4.Once the gearbox was mounted and the rear 27mm bolts installed but not torqued down. The two outer holes only one would line up enough to get the nut on!

Spent the next 3 hours attempting to adjust to get the 2nd nut on. G-Clamps, crowbars and lots a swearing did not make it want to fit.

Removed the mount and found it was curved so always one hole would never line it.

Another failed attempt led me to revert back to the stock Brazilian mount! Which of course fitted in 2 minutes!

The lesson is 

"Aftermarket parts never fit without modification, Stock parts quickly fit first time every time!"

I assume in a car factory assembly line time is critical and stock parts must be able to fit quickly first time.

So once the mount was secured in CV joints where fitted up but not torqued down. Most other items where installed such as Bowman Tube and Clutch cable etc.

Here is the finished install:

Rear EMPI Mounts & 27mm Bolts:

Left & Right Beetle Inner CV Joints:

Stock front mount (with additional new earth wire)

:

Front Linkage:

So finally stopped at 9pm on Friday night with everything installed.

Saturday morning started at around 11am. Torqued down 27mm rear bolts and front mounts. CV joints torqued down and boot clips installed.

Starter motor refitted & reverse light switch connected.

Saturday Lunch all finished ready for Phase 6 - Engine Install!

Broken Gearbox - Phase 4b Swap Gearbox Parts

Broken Gearbox - Phase 4b Swap Gearbox Parts

Phase 4b of the gearbox replacement is to continue swapping over parts & re-building of the replacement gearbox for installation.

Phase 4b was to complete the following:

1. Finish Gearbox mounts installation
2. Starter motor earth lead & Reverse switch cable
3. Gearbox plugs & Refill gearbox
4. CV Joints & Boots install on van

Finish Gearbox mounts installation

After last phase 4b I had to continue to get the EMPI aftermarket mounts on the gearbox cradle.

EMPI gearbox mounts:

The curve of the mounts did not quite match the curve of the cradle BUT once bolted down all seems good.

Close up of rear mounts & Fount mount

Starter motor earth lead & Reverse Switch Cable

Attached the starter motor to rear mount. Cleaned up contacts to make good electrical connection as this is stater motor and also engine main earth connection.

The beetle gearbox has another front cable (to the right of image above). This was to connect to the front mount. I will purchase a new one and add one anyway. The Brazilian Bay does not seem to bother with this one. It just relies on the rear connection through the cradle and onto the gearbox chassis forks.

You can never have enough clean earth points!

Install the reverse switch cable loom after cleaning contacts.

Gearbox plugs & Refill Gearbox

Installed lower plug and refilled with clean new gearbox oil. Filled 2 Liters of 75/90w GL-4 Semi-synthetic oil. Could do with topping up. Will drain and refill again after a few hundred miles.

CV Joints & Boots install on van

Finished cleaning the Beetle CV joints. One on the right hand side is a much stiffer than the left. Washed in Petrol then brake cleaner solvent. The coated with WD40.

Back under the van again. Installed CV Boots onto driveshafts. Gosh that was hard! The rubber is very tight and pushing the rubber boot over the driveshaft was fun! Managed to wiggle & rotate and push all at the same time.

Then it was concave washer, CV Joint, C Clip. Sounds simple but packing them with grease was hard to get in all the bearings. Messy job but all sorted.

Have not installed boot outer clamps yet as wanted to get the CV joints bolted to the replacement gearbox in place first to get boot distance correct. New boots are very good and flexible.

Boot in place

CV Joint Installed

Bolts are just to get alignment of boot to joints. Remember to get your clamp on before your boot!

There was some extra distance of the drive shaft to either the C-Clip or concave washer. Not sure if this is an issue BUT I suppose when CV is bolted firmly to the gearbox the joint will not move. 

So we are already to go to the next phase 5 - Replacement gearbox install!

Gave up a little early and finish by 10pm as I was tired and it was starting to rain.

Phase 5 Gearbox install on Friday! Finish work at 3pm so might be able to get install completed in one go........ Stay Tuned.

Broken Gearbox ;-(

Broken Gearbox!

Thursday 16th June 2016 is the day my Brazilian Bay Gearbox Died!

The Incident:

Never been very happy with the noises my gearbox in my Brazilian Kombi made since I bought it, always wining when de/accelerating and trouble selecting 2nd gear.

Today was the day it finally gave up. Reversing off the drive in the morning is always tricky as the Chelsea Tractors going to the grammar school always speed down our road. I saw a chance to reverse out and a 4x4 was coming fast down the road. So once out I decided I better get moving fast so into 1st gear and up rather rapidly with the clutch. Slight wheel spin on one rear wheel and the other took grip.

Lots of shuddering as the van started to move and van popped out of 1st. Shoved back into gear and started moving away slowly and a horrid noise every rotation of the wheel like a clunk-clunk noise emanating from the gearbox on the left.

Tried 2nd gear and same noise and crunching and grinding sounds. Made it round the corner frantically selecting any gear which would not grind. Did a random U-Turn and made it back to home.

So I think the differential or final drive has gone and the gearbox is eating itself internally from within.

The Replacement Choice:

So I was on the hunt for a new gearbox. Many options but no Brazilian OEM gearboxes available and would not want another poor quality gearbox again.

So the Brazilian Kombi uses a hybrid gearbox which is mounted from below at the rear like a Late Beetle IRS gearbox (mounted on two forks which come out from the chassis. The front of the gearbox mounts similar to a late bay with a longer nose cone.

So the hunt started for a Late Beetle IRS gearbox. From the on-line gearbox codes my options are:

CODE	1st	2nd	3rd	4th	Final Drive	Rpm @60mph	Info Year / Type / Engine cc
Brazilian	3.80	2.06	1.32	0.88	5.143	3800	IRS from 97 1600 Brazil
AH	3.80	2.06	1.26	0.89	4.125	3100	IRS from 8/68 – 8/72 1500/1600
AS	3.80	2.06	1.26	0.93	3.875	3000	IRS From 3/72 1600 (GT)
AT	3.80	2.06	1.26	0.93	3.875	3000	IRS 1303s from 3/72 1600
AM	3.78	2.06	1.26	0.93	4.375	3400	IRS Saloon from 8/70 1300

Then using the on-line gear ratio calculation at:

http://calc.teammfactory.com/

You get a graph for 2 different gearboxes (original and replacement)

As I suspected the Brazilian gearbox Ratios are higher rpm in 4th gear at 60 mph topping a 3800 rpm. I have found that the engine RPM is very high when traveling on a Motorway and fuel consumption is poor compared to a classic late bay.

I suppose in the heat, poor roads and steep inclines of Brazil you would want to keep more higher rpm for acceleration, lower top speed and better cooling running the higher rpm. In the UK / Europe you have more motorways and cruising.

Any of the beetle gearboxes are going to give a lower rpm in 4th gear. The downside will be slightly longer to get there BUT less engine wear.

So my options are:

1. NEW Brazilian - There are NO Brazilian replacements available in the UK. Also why would you ever want a low quality gearbox.
2. NEW Beetle / Bus - There are new gearboxes for Beetles / Bus available BUT at over £1500-£5000 way out of price range
3. Reconditioned - Many companies re-con old VW gearboxes - They nearly all ask for your old gear box in exchange or a surcharge. Some varying quality and warranty. Choose wisely and also they might not take your old gearbox and warranty issues if you remove parts from it and DON'T expect a straight Brazilian swap you will have to get a beetle and modify it to fit! Prices are generally £800- £1500.
4. Second Hand - There are some of the above Beetle gearboxes available mostly on e-bay etc. The lack of interest in late (1302/1303) IRS beetles helps but yet again there are not many about as most people exchange for re-con units. Again choose wisely. You will not get a warranty on a private sale. Some of the second hand parts suppliers do have them available. Prices Start from £150-£300

My choice was number 4 to go to the low cost risky second hand. The search found found that these are the typical prices.

Code AM £200

Code AH £280

Code AT £350

So as you can see the AT (1600 GT) is the most popular and rarer model. The AM is the basic 1300 simple model.

The Replacement:

So I looked on e-bay and found a few BUT I really wanted to physically see the gearbox to give it the once over before parting with nearly £300!

After ringing around found some US imports but not local.

Then I contacted my friendly local beetle breakers and yes they had a rarer 1302s (1600 model) beetle gearbox complete with CV & drive shafts. They wanted £300 But after a little negotiation I got it for £270 (Minus the starter motor)

So I could collect it on Thursday evening (same day as breaking it to sourcing a replacement!) Drove the 10 miles up the M1 in the most horrible rain storm to collect.

Here she is:

Not the most clean or best condition but the beetle had spent 20 Years under a tarp in a front garden. The history well the beetle had only done 34,000 miles and then was left in the garden. The engine (still working) was sold and the body cut up by the breakers as it was very rotten.

So next steps will to be continued as work progresses BUT the phases are:

Phase 1 - Clean & Strip New gearbox

Phase 2 - Remove Engine

Phase 3 - Remove old gearbox

Phase 4 - Swap Over old parts to new gearbox

Phase 5 - Fit new gearbox

Phase 6 - Refit engine

To be continued..... Stay Tuned for progress & updates.