Window Winder

Went to wind my drivers side window last week and it got 3/4 of the way up and the handle just went round and the window did not go up or down.

Lucky I was in the work car park and could leave the window open and thank god the rain held off.

Anyway ordered the late bay window winder from VW heritage on Friday and it arrived on the Monday.

Managed to remove the old one push the window up and hold it up with a piece of wood over the weekend.

So removed the old one by taking off door card.

Removed all screws and fixings

Still got the original moisture barrier plastic intact 

Once all removed started to look at removing the regulator mechanism. The Brazilian bays have two 10mm bolts around the winder handle and then pot rivets for the upper and lower mounting of the regulator.

Winder bolt holes

Drilled out lower rivets

Drilled out upper rivets

To remove the regulator I removed the window clamp from the regulator and taped the window in its up position (away from the drilling of the rivets) Drilled out the rivets.

Then I lowered the glass down. Removed the 10mm headed screw which holder the lower part of the quarter light and left window channel.

Now comes the fun part. You have to waggle the regulator around and somehow slide it between the above bolt and the channel. Its quite tight between them but after a log of pulling and tugging it comes free.

Once the new regulator arrived it was time to put it back in. I had to enlarge the top and bottom mounting holes to allow a 10mm bolt to go through as it had tapped threads instead of pot rivets. So  decided a bolt in classic bay style was better.

Now one the regulator is out you need to push the window back up and hold it up with some tape. Then waggle the new one in. After some pushing and pulling it went back it. Bolted all 6 bolts to fix it in place and replace the bolt which holds the channel in place.

Now push the window back up and attach it using the bolts through the large holes at the top.

No I have left the door card off for now to see how it all settles in. All good after a week.

Looking inside the bottom of the door there is not much evidence of the waxyol I put in a few years ago. I am going to paint loads more before putting the card back on.

New Bumper

New Bumper

After driving into a low wall in a Tesco Express car park a year or so ago it bent and damaged by rear bumper on the right hand side.

Bumper Vs Wall - 1-0 to Bumper.

As you can see the wall came off worst!

Anyway the bumper needed replacement as it was starting to rust and look terrible.

Found a e-bay discounted one from Status VW who sell Just Kamper returns for £91 Bargain!

It arrived and sent it off to local Powder coaters for a 2 coats of white powder coat for £40.

Went to fit it - Oh dear! - Brackets are correct but in completely the wrong place!

So new bumpers brackets are about 100mm in the wrong place!

So cut through old spot welds. Fitted Brackets to the van and tacked welded the brackets to the bumper once alignment was checked.

The spot weld did blister the power coat but only visible as 3 spots on top on both sides.

Should have trial fitted BEFORE PAINTING! but I just thought it was advertised as a direct swap stock Brazilian bumper!

Here is the end result:

I am not going to buy any more parts other than stock!

Thanks to Matt for the use of his welding & grinding expertise.

Gearbox Replacement Procedure

Brazilian Bay - Gearbox Replacement

This is a summary guide of my Gearbox replacement.

The Brazilian Bay Kombi gearbox is made in Brazil and is known to have reliability / poor quality manufacture and is best replaced by a German Gearbox.

Here is the progress summary of my Gearbox replacement. Basically its a Late IRS Beetle Gearbox from a 1300-1600cc Late Beetle (1302/1303s Models with the 1600s being the best)

In this case I swapped the RP code Brazilian Bay Gearbox with a 1302s 1600 AH code gearbox

Firstly find and select a suitable gearbox here is my AH code gearbox (new CV joints or Beetle CV joints are required as beetle Gearboxes have a 94mm Diameter CV joint and Bus / Brazilian Bays use a 100mm so you will need to have Bus Outer & Drive shafts and Beetle Inner CV joints)

You need to clean the gearbox and remove old CV joints.

Remove rear bumper & Valance:

Remove Engine:

Remove Old Gearbox:

Swap Over Nose Cone & Hockey stick from Old to new:

Install Beetle CV Joints on van:

Install new gearbox & connect up:

Refit engine. Test gearbox while still on axle stands to ensure all gears work.

Once satisfied away you go with a German Quality Gearbox.

Full comprehensive write up of each phase of my install is on my T2bay bay blog.

http://t2bay.blogspot.co.uk/

I will include this in a full step by step guide in the next version of the service manual also found on my blog.

Broken Gearbox - Phase 6 Engine Install

Broken Gearbox - Phase 6 Engine Install

Phase 6 - Last phase. Install the engine connect up and finish!

After completing the new gearbox install on Saturday morning it was time to install the engine!

Texted good Friend Matt (aka Mr Quickfit!) and asked for balancing hands and also his larger trolley jack to help install the engine.

Matt & his van Frank arrived. It so much easier to lift engine and install with another pair of hands.

Despite the 20 degree slope on my drive we managed to lift the engine and roll it towards the awaiting gearbox.

First attempt was slightly tilted at the top (looking back the slope on the drive will mean that as it goes in it needs to be lowered to compensate) but after lower and a little bit of wiggling in slid the engine.

Quickly in with the engine mounting bolts & nuts. Engine was in!

Installed & connected up fuel lines, filter and all associated auxiliaries.

Struggled for an hour trying to get braided accelerator cable into locking bolt on throttle body. Every time we cut the braided cable the cutters crushed the braid meaning it would not go in. In the end enlarged the hole with a drill to give the braids in.

Decided to install battery and start engine without rear tin and valance to confirm we had 4 forward gears, neutral and reverse.

Engine started first time once the fuel had pumped through. No leaks. Sound mean with only the CAT in the exhaust!

Checked clutch and all 4 gears and wheels rotated correctly and reverse was good. It was great to see the wheels move again!

ALL GOOD! No leaks no issues!

Installed exhaust - The rubber mounts are tricky to clip over the hangers BUT Matt just clipped them in straight away and has now been given the nickname "Mr Quickfit!" as I think he might have been an exhaust fitter at Quickfit in a former life!

First Drive Impressions:

Rear valance installed dropped off axle stands and chocks away.

Getting off the drive was very nerve racking but away we went for first drive round the block!

First impressions - Same acceleration in 1st and 2nd. 3rd is much longer allowing me to get over 50 mph before changing. Did not really get much 4th gear yet.

No more crunching going in to 2nd! I always thought this was my gear level adjustment but it was actually the old Brazilian Gearbox (RIP!)

Clutch is a little softer but might need some adjustment to tighten it up. Good gear selection but a little stiff but I am sure once the gearbox oil as got everywhere and starts to wear in. The hockey stick was a little tight on the gear selection forks so this is to be expected.

I am SO PLEASED! All that hard work and late evenings, grease and oil have paid off and the replacement gearbox is so far so good.

Next few days of shakedown testing and a re-check of all bolts and a CV clip to replace.

The Big Thank you!

I could not have done all this without the support of my Family and Friends and I would especially like to thank the following people.

My beautiful, supportive and loving wife Charlotte

You have supported me throughout this giving up your car, driveway, evenings, husband and allowing me to erect the "party tent" while still bring me cups of tea and kind words of encouragement and support through all of this. I could not have done this without you. I love you x.

My Boys

Thanks must go to my two great boys who lost their dad for a week. Thanks for taking an interest and asking about the progress and the thumbs up through the sitting room window. A dad could not ask for better two sons and I am really proud of you both!

Mr "Quickfit" Matt.

Your supportive words and helping hands throughout this have been great. Your ability to clip exhaust mounts on in a flash amaze me. You and your family having to go to bus stop over without us. Your a true Friend.

DazDub.

Online Member of the Brazilian Bay forum who did a Beetle / Brazilian bay gearbox swap a few years ago and wrote it up on the forum. Never met you but thanks for your write up and advice.

Anyway that's all folks!

More updates with progress and any debugging will follow.....

Broken Gearbox - Phase 5 New gearbox Install

Broken Gearbox - Phase 5 New gearbox Install

Next Phase 5 was to install the gearbox on Friday afternoon. Despite the rain showers the install went OK.

Major problem was the EMPI aftermarket front mount! There are just 4 holes. Two go on the gearbox and two mount to studs on the chassis from gearbox mount. Bolted to the gearbox was done in phase 4.Once the gearbox was mounted and the rear 27mm bolts installed but not torqued down. The two outer holes only one would line up enough to get the nut on!

Spent the next 3 hours attempting to adjust to get the 2nd nut on. G-Clamps, crowbars and lots a swearing did not make it want to fit.

Removed the mount and found it was curved so always one hole would never line it.

Another failed attempt led me to revert back to the stock Brazilian mount! Which of course fitted in 2 minutes!

The lesson is 

"Aftermarket parts never fit without modification, Stock parts quickly fit first time every time!"

I assume in a car factory assembly line time is critical and stock parts must be able to fit quickly first time.

So once the mount was secured in CV joints where fitted up but not torqued down. Most other items where installed such as Bowman Tube and Clutch cable etc.

Here is the finished install:

Rear EMPI Mounts & 27mm Bolts:

Left & Right Beetle Inner CV Joints:

Stock front mount (with additional new earth wire)

:

Front Linkage:

So finally stopped at 9pm on Friday night with everything installed.

Saturday morning started at around 11am. Torqued down 27mm rear bolts and front mounts. CV joints torqued down and boot clips installed.

Starter motor refitted & reverse light switch connected.

Saturday Lunch all finished ready for Phase 6 - Engine Install!

Broken Gearbox - Phase 4b Swap Gearbox Parts

Broken Gearbox - Phase 4b Swap Gearbox Parts

Phase 4b of the gearbox replacement is to continue swapping over parts & re-building of the replacement gearbox for installation.

Phase 4b was to complete the following:

1. Finish Gearbox mounts installation
2. Starter motor earth lead & Reverse switch cable
3. Gearbox plugs & Refill gearbox
4. CV Joints & Boots install on van

Finish Gearbox mounts installation

After last phase 4b I had to continue to get the EMPI aftermarket mounts on the gearbox cradle.

EMPI gearbox mounts:

The curve of the mounts did not quite match the curve of the cradle BUT once bolted down all seems good.

Close up of rear mounts & Fount mount

Starter motor earth lead & Reverse Switch Cable

Attached the starter motor to rear mount. Cleaned up contacts to make good electrical connection as this is stater motor and also engine main earth connection.

The beetle gearbox has another front cable (to the right of image above). This was to connect to the front mount. I will purchase a new one and add one anyway. The Brazilian Bay does not seem to bother with this one. It just relies on the rear connection through the cradle and onto the gearbox chassis forks.

You can never have enough clean earth points!

Install the reverse switch cable loom after cleaning contacts.

Gearbox plugs & Refill Gearbox

Installed lower plug and refilled with clean new gearbox oil. Filled 2 Liters of 75/90w GL-4 Semi-synthetic oil. Could do with topping up. Will drain and refill again after a few hundred miles.

CV Joints & Boots install on van

Finished cleaning the Beetle CV joints. One on the right hand side is a much stiffer than the left. Washed in Petrol then brake cleaner solvent. The coated with WD40.

Back under the van again. Installed CV Boots onto driveshafts. Gosh that was hard! The rubber is very tight and pushing the rubber boot over the driveshaft was fun! Managed to wiggle & rotate and push all at the same time.

Then it was concave washer, CV Joint, C Clip. Sounds simple but packing them with grease was hard to get in all the bearings. Messy job but all sorted.

Have not installed boot outer clamps yet as wanted to get the CV joints bolted to the replacement gearbox in place first to get boot distance correct. New boots are very good and flexible.

Boot in place

CV Joint Installed

Bolts are just to get alignment of boot to joints. Remember to get your clamp on before your boot!

There was some extra distance of the drive shaft to either the C-Clip or concave washer. Not sure if this is an issue BUT I suppose when CV is bolted firmly to the gearbox the joint will not move. 

So we are already to go to the next phase 5 - Replacement gearbox install!

Gave up a little early and finish by 10pm as I was tired and it was starting to rain.

Phase 5 Gearbox install on Friday! Finish work at 3pm so might be able to get install completed in one go........ Stay Tuned.

Broken Gearbox - Phase 4a Swap Gearbox Parts

Broken Gearbox - Phase 4a Swap Gearbox Parts

Next phase under progress. This phase is to swap parts from old gearbox and start mounting them on the replacement (new) gearbox.

The parts required for swapping and new replacements are:

1. Beetle CV Joints - Clean and inspect for refitting with new boots
2. Brazilian CV Joints - Remove from driveshafts  (keep) on van
3. Brazilian Gearbox - Nose Cone, reverse switch & hockey stick
4. Clutch Return spring - Fit new to replacement gearbox
5. Clutch Bearing - Inspected Brazilian and going to reuse
6. Gear selector boot - reuse boot at front of nose cone
7. New Gearbox mounts - Fit EMPI urethane mounts

You could fit all new parts such as Beetle CV joints, Clutch bearing etc BUT I only wanted to replace parts which actually involve removing the gearbox. parts like CV joints can be fitted another time. 

My philosophy is only change what you can't change later and the more you change the more things can go wrong.

So the work started. Its currently Wednesday 22/6/16 and its Day 6 since I broke the gearbox. Only working evenings so its taking longer than I would like.

Beetle CV Joints - Clean and inspect for refitting with new boots

Removed from Beetle drive shafts. Marked which side they came from. Wiped up as much grease as possible and soaked in petrol. One side was a little bit more stiff but should be OK. You could replace them with new BUT then I would have old Brazilian outer and new beetle inner CV joints. I will get round to replacing all CV at the same time but in the future. At £50 a joint it is for another time.

The beetle inner CVs will be re-used but treated to a good clean, grease and a pair of new boots. Stored for Phase 5.

Brazilian CV Joints - Remove from driveshafts  (keep) on van

Have to remove the CV joints as they are too big to fit the beetle gearbox (Bus ones are 100mm Diameter and Beetles are 94mm) but the driveshaft is identical.

Brazilian CV joints ready for removal:

Spring clips are a pain to get out. My circlip pliers are now bent! (One thing I did notice is that the Brazilian ones have a black rubber gasket on the mounting face)

Drive shafts stay in place:

OLD Brazilian CV joints & Boots:

Messy JOB! Plenty of rags, solvent & gloves used:

Drive Shafts awaiting Beetle CV Joints & Boots:

Brazilian Gearbox - Nose Cone, reverse switch & hockey stick

Time to remove the replacement gearbox nose cone and swap over with the Brazilian one.

11mm bolts are used on Brazilian and 11mm nuts are used on a Beetle gearbox.

Easy swap. Just had to ensure (hopefully) that the hockey stick is located in the selector forks are all in neutral (full pulled out)

New paper gasket & sealant used to ensure it won't leak. Sorry no photos taken of this step but plenty of images on-line.

Here is the differences:

This is a replacement (new) nose cone (left) and the beetle gearbox right. I did not use the replacement as I did not have a replacement hockey stick.

Suggested to grease front seal to ensure a smooth gear selection and also to help seal against leaks.

Clutch Return spring - Fit new to replacement gearbox

This was fun! Over an hour getting a new spring onto the replacement gear box arm!

The replacement gearbox arm was in good condition but the spring had rusted and snapped.

I found this instruction online which explained the process.

Sounds simple! Well it is not! Managed to slip a screwdriver in 2 and another to loop spring over 3!

Picture of new spring!

Clutch Bearing - Inspected Brazilian and going to reuse

Inspected my old clutch bearing and was not planning to replace clutch plates so just a simple swap over. Made sure to grease ALL clutch parts in gearbox bell housing.

Picture of clutch bearing

Gear selector boot - reuse boot at front of nose cone

Simple push on rubber boot! Easy job.

New Gearbox mounts - Fit EMPI urethane mounts

Another horrible job! Should have bought stock gearbox mounts. But went for the stronger less noisy. Aftermarket stuff mostly does not fit!

Front one easy. Just two bolts & nuts.

Rear ones have to be bolted to the bell housing and then the outer bolts to the under gearbox yoke / cradle.

That's the theory BUT the mounts are not curved enough and don't fit the yoke correctly. So 3 of the bolts fit but the outer edge one does not.

Time to give up for tonight! Was hammering & hack sawing 2mm off a bolt at half midnight is a sure way of upsetting the neighbors!

So Phase 4a Swapping over gearbox parts is continuing tonight! so Phase 4b is coming soon..........Stay tuned!

Broken Gearbox - Phase 3 Old Gearbox Removal

Broken Gearbox - Phase 3 Old Gearbox Removal

So next phase is removal of the broken old Brazilian Bay Gearbox. If you have been following this blog you will have seen the issue with the old gearbox and heard the clunking grinding of the original gearbox and my plans to remove and replace.

This phase 3 is removal of the old gearbox. Being an IRS gearbox with driveshafts and CV joints this will make life a lot easier than the swing axle style.

So here is where we are at:

Remove CV Joints:

Using a 12 spline socket (8mm) and giving each bolt a good spray and clean out all rust, mud , oil & crud before undoing.

Rotating the wheel round gives better access.

Other Stuff to remove:

Now onto the Gearbox Linkage at the front. Put it in 1st or 3rd gear undo small 8 square bolt after removing the securing wire at the front of gearbox. Then put in 2nd or 4th gear and it should separate.

Clutch cable undo wing nut fully, then pull down on bowman flexible section to remove from tube mount of gearbox.

Reverse Light switch - Just unplug handy connector block.

Gearbox Mounts:

Spray and using a 27mm socket (I had to buy one!) and breaker bar loosen these massive bolts!

The front mount has a 17mm nuts on the mount or gearbox. I removed all 4 .

Then placed a trolley jack a little front of the drain plug & pulled.

Out!

Now drained oil:

Might be some metal particles on the drain PLUG!

Most of my differential and final drive!

What's left behind:

Onto the next Phase 4 - Swap parts over from old to new gearbox........ Stay tuned!